It may seem a strange thing, but the greatest sense of freedom I have experienced in life has come when wandering around high up on the flanks of active volcanoes in Ecuador.
My personal favourite is Volcán Tungurahua located in the province of Tungurahua in central Ecuador. Tungurahua means “Throat of Fire” in the native Kichwa language. It stands at 5023 m (16,480 ft) in total height above sea level, and towers over the towns around it by a good 1554 m (5098 ft). Its last major activity was in December 2010 lasting into January 2011.
Since I was planning to visit the town of Baños de Agua Santa at its base, I began checked volcanic updates daily since December. I learned as much as I could about volcanoes in general – how they work, how to recognize warning signs that occur before eruptions, and what to do in case of an eruption. And I learned as much as I could about Tungurahua itself before I ever left for Ecuador.
On the way into Baños the summit of Tungurahua was obscured by cloud so I was unsure as to its level of activity. Once in town, I noticed that no one was talking about the volcano which was a good sign. The next day after relaxing in the thermal mineral baths that are fed by a hot spring bubbling out of the base of the volcano and checking on weather forecasts for the day, I began assessing my options to its summit. This is where the sense of freedom began.
After a few high-altitude hikes previously, and feeling a bit too relaxed after the mineral bath, I decided on the “easy” route of simply taking a taxi up to the last little pueblo on Tungurahua. Once at the pueblo it was on foot the rest of the way. Sounds easy but at high altitude even “easy climbs” take a lot of effort.
As a climber, I am not an extreme climber. No vertical cliff faces, nothing that requires ropes, special equipment or training. I stick with footpaths that may require a ton of effort but nothing more. After walking uphill for another 2 km (1.25 miles) or so I came to the point where the path went no higher. At that point, I was standing at 4572 m (15,000 ft). Having no compass, overnight gear, etc I decided the best option was to NOT attempt to climb to the top of the crater. Getting lost in the trees or getting trapped up there when the clouds would come in did not seem like a good option to me. So I rested a bit here, admiring the views and just thankful that Tungurahua had allowed me to climb so close to the crater on this side. (You can reach the crater by a path on the opposite side of the mountain, but that is also the side that Tungurahua vents towards. I was on the “safe side”, the side that doesn’t receive much damage during the volcano’s outbursts.)
On the way back down, I decided that because Tungurahua was calm and the weather was clear I would simply take the footpath rather than the road back to town. The path was steep, often just a narrow track. Once in awhile the trees would open where I could see down the cliff to the town below which at first was a dizzying 1550 m (5000 ft) straight drop with no fences or anything to keep you from going off the edge.
Along the journey down I was surrounded by a variety of flowers that I have never seen before, so many kinds and shapes and colours. Butterflies and hummingbirds everywhere. All the while listening for rumblings or belches from the crater above me, in tune with the ground under my feet waiting for slight tremors or vibrations to say that the volcano I was walking on was getting restless.
Telling this tale to people back home I receive many comments. Shock mostly. “Are you crazy?” “You’re braver than me!” “You’re insane walking down an active volcano! With no guide! You could have been killed!”
Was it lack of oxygen that caused me to feel such a sense of freedom under these circumstances? Or a death wish? A touch of insanity?
The freedom really started to dawn on me as I began plotting the best way for me to get up to the crater. The limited choice of 2 roads and a footpath was narrowed to 2 roads because I was not in the mindset to walk up 1500+ m then walk back down. So it became a choice of which side to go up – the safe side or the other side? The first freedom came not through a myriad of choices available, but by the simplicity of only a few viable options.
Once the taxi left, I had only one option left: walk. Even more freedom because now I had one path to continue upwards to the summit, and only one means to attain it. It was easy to enjoy the weather and the views out over the valley below. The burdens of yesterday and the concerns/plans for tomorrow vanished as I was more focused on attentiveness to the mood of the volcano and keeping an eye on clouds forming off in the distance.
The next freedom came due to my restricted pace. I could not walk quickly up here, and being forced to slow down gave me a freedom of relaxation and peace and release of the pressures of daily life in a big city.
Walking around a bend I saw a sight that I had longed to see since I was a child and had been saddened by NOT seeing elsewhere on the trip: the sight of a wild Andean condor! I stopped and at marvelled at the giant bird soaring over the top of the volcano, and gliding effortlessly over the valleys. Nothing else existed during those few minutes except the condor, the sky, the mountains, the valley, and the volcano.
Then I reached the end of the path upwards. A few quick decisions mentioned above brought the end of my upward climb. And here perhaps was the greatest freedom: the simplicity of making sound judgements without having to weigh factors of all the facets of city life. Up here it is simply: is this a good idea? You have to only factor in a few immediate concerns to say “yes I will do it” or “no I won’t attempt it”. There is no “if I do this will I lose my job/house/spouse/family?” Up here it is “Am I prepared for survival if I get stuck here overnight?” In my case the answer was a simple “NO” so it was a simple decision to head back down.
Walking down the footpath also offered a tremendous freedom: there was only one path, and I was heading downwards on it, so I never had to worry about “am I going the right direction?” No concerns of getting lost, of taking a wrong turn. . It allowed me to focus on listening to and feeling the volcano for any changes, and to enjoy the beautiful variety of life with no concerns to hinder me.
The freedoms came from knowing the volcano and doing things in accord with what it would allow… and doing things in accord with my own limitations in respect to the mountain and its environment. I did not try to push beyond the point where the path ended because it was beyond what I was prepared for; the volcano was calm and the clouds stayed away.
Do I regret that I got that high up the volcano yet never did reach the summit? No. For me it is not whether I reach the summit or not… I know many have that reach-it-at-all-costs mentality. For me, it is enough that Tungurahua allowed me to climb safely that close to the crater at all, and to experience the freedoms mentioned above during my intimate experience on the volcano. Such an experience I do not take for granted: the very next day Tungurahua started spewing again, making the serene experience I had the day before into a more daunting, risky venture the following day.
“Like the Stoic sage, the climber who understands the mountains and his or her self, and whose will is in harmony with the mountain environment, is free. But the freedom does not result from having many options; instead, it is a result of desiring precisely those things the mountain allows.” – Kevin Krein, Climbing and the Stoic Conception of Freedom




